Prepping a car for paint

 

This can be a time consuming process. There are so many little things to look for when getting a vehicle ready to paint. From blocking all the dents out, making sure all your edges and gaps are perfect, paying attention to how deep the scratches are in the primer. More on that later. How you tape the vehicle up and what you wash it down with to make sure there are no grease, oils or dirt remaining on the panels.

 

Now what to do when its a solid color and a metallic color. You have to decide if you want to paint it all together or separately. I will paint a solid color apart and a metallic color together. (this is where great tapeing comes in) a solid color is easier to paint apart because you get your 3 coats on and you are good , the color will match. Although there are many variables when painting a metallic color. Air pressure speed, distance from panel, air temp and a few other things.

 

So lets start with block sanding the panels This is what makes or breakes your paint job. After blocking and priming twice I will thin the primer out for a last prime making it a total of 3 primes. Ill put 3 med wet coats on to get the most amount of product on the panels and as smooth as possible for easier sanding. I will start wet sanding with 320 grit then 400 grit with a hard block, I will go to 600 grit wet for metallics, and then sight the panels with water or pre cleano. This helps with seeing any imperfections in the panels. If I see any then I will continue to sand or even spot prime those areas as needed. On a side note I use 600grit for metallics to help with the metallics to lay down better.

 

Sand all your edges! Making sure there is not body filler remaining and recheck before you paint. Seam seal all seams that need it, taking care that there isn’t any left on the panel.

 

After getting the panels straight make sure you get all the wet sanding residue off the vehicle. You can wash the car if you wish. I do not. I will just get a wet rag or pre cleano to wash or wipe the residue off. Then I will blow the vehicle off thoroughly. This is MOST important! I have spent a half hour making sure there is no dust, dirt or sandblast sand anywhere remaining in the car or truck.

 

Once this is done then we can start tapeing the vehicle. Paying attention to how well you tape the car. No over tapeing, make sure you check this before you paint! Also before you paint and during painting make sure all the tape is still adhered to the panels. Over spray is a pain.

 

Certain vehicles are painted black on the inside of fenders, hoods inside of doors, so you will have to tape these up first then you can paint the panel. If you are putting the car together for metallics then you can do this also. Put the panels on so you can open the door and trunk lid to get into the jambs. (unless you painted then previously)

 

Once in the booth wash the panels with multiple cleaners, wax and grease remover, static remover there are many different ones you can use. I use the Glasurit line 900 901 903 and 909. I tend to use them all just to make sure that bad boy is clean and free from any potential oils, dirt, grease ect. Then blow the car off again and finally use a tac rag or cloth. There are 2 types to use. One is more sticky than the other. I prefer the stickier one to start with then I will use the less sticky on the base coat. I will even sand the second coat of base to nib any possible dirt particles and the 3rd coat of metallic will be a dust coat or control coat to eliminate the possibility of zebra stripes or modeling.I wont tack off the dust coat because it will smudge the metallics.  

 

After your base coat let it sit and start your clear coat. I tend to apply 4 coats so I can have enough material for wet sanding the clear coat for a mirror smooth finish. That will be in an upcoming article.